With his otherworldly creations, Yuima Nakazato proved there is sense in consistency, building on the discourse of last season’s creations, which were informed by a research trip to Africa and his discovery of its mountains of textile waste. The experience left its mark, as well as ample inspiration for another moving, poetic collection.
His “Magma” collection, in a pared back palette of black, white and red — the latter representing both emotions and danger, he explained — was crafted from multitudinous rectangles of fabric, draped and spliced to create his powerful ethereal silhouettes, for which he drew parallels between traditional kimono making techniques and the robe-like apparel of the African continent.
Prints derived from photos of spent textiles were stained red, seen through red light on the floor of the Palais de Tokyo venue and on the designs themselves. “This gives them a totally different meaning,” said the designer, likening the transformed motifs to a natural landscape that also reminded him of a Hokusai painting. From the ceiling hung a series of lightweight sculptures that defied interpretation — they could have been discarded clothes blackened by time, or ominous clouds on the horizon.
Silhouettes ranged from structured, creative tailoring, voluminous layers of diaphanous draping held in shape with strings and resembling organic forms, and multitudes of translucent fabric strips evoking undulating feathers.
Striking ceramic jewelry added to the sense of ceremony, the simple opening robe-like looks adorned with a multitude of pendants that jingled like chimes as the models walked into the silent venue before the music began.